Where have you been?

I recently saw a story about a 79-year old woman who visited all 193 UN member states.  That's a great feat for her, which should be celebrated.  I don't have that goal.  I just want to continue exploring the world my way.  So far, I've visited 30 countries outside the US.

 I plan to update my country map with each new location that I visit.

My heritage

I will go home to my father... 

Luke 15:18 NLT

For years, I have written about my trips around the world, from Australia to India to South Africa to Peru to Iceland.  I've been blessed to visit approximately 30 countries on 6 continents, and I have more to see.  However, before I ever visited those countries, I visited "the country".  My first trips were not to a glamorous, magazine-worthy destination.  My early travel consisted of road trips to see my father's family in the woods of northern Louisiana.  

Today, I traveled down a road that took me back to the beginning.  Not just my beginning, but the beginning of my father's family (that we can trace).  

How did I get back to the beginning?  We held our family reunion this weekend where I met and reconnected with my family.  We talked about how we were related and I heard new names and new stories.  I had the privilege of serving on the planning committee, and we worked hard to make it a fun event for the young and old.  We welcomed everyone on Friday night with fun and games.  The weekend continued with a picnic and talent show on Saturday.  The final event was worship service today at the family church where my grandfather and other elders served over the years.  My family members were acknowledged not just during the service, but my ancestors were also silently honored on the pews where we sat.  The pastor spoke from Luke 15:17-18 with a message about the wasteful son who returned home.  Our family came home this weekend.  

 

My favorite part of this weekend happened after church when all of the official reunion events were over and everyone had said goodbye.  My dad told me he was going to the cemetery down the road to visit his parents' grave, and I hopped in the car with him.  That old cemetery contains the graves of not just my grandparents.  It is also the resting place of many other relatives, including cousins, aunts, uncles, great-grandparents, and more.  As we walked, my dad told me about some of the names he recognized, and I shared what I knew based on my research of the family tree.  The people buried in that cemetery lived. They loved.  They lost.  They learned.  They laid the foundations for family, community, homes, and churches with their labor, their prayers, and their capital.  

After we left the cemetery, we drove down the unpaved road to my family's property.  There were no signs or established markers, but my dad knew the way instinctively.  He told me he used to run through those woods barefooted as a kid.  He pointed out different places along the way where landmarks used to be.  I vaguely remembered the road from when I visited my grandparents as a kid.  It's probably been about 20 years since I've been on our land.  When we arrived at the end of the road, I was both amazed and aggrieved.  As we drove through the rough terrain I thought about all the memories that were made there.  Those hills watched our family grow for many generations, and now they were empty.  All of the previous occupants had either died or moved to the big city.  I was sad when we arrived at the end of our road today, because a new road was there cutting through our property.  Where my grandparents' home previously stood is now Interstate 49.  I already knew the highway was there, but it felt heavy seeing it up close.  If it's hard for me, I can't imagine how difficult it must be for my father. 

 

The house stood at the top of this hill before it was demolished for I49.

There's something about going back and looking at the past that recharges the future.  It's like my ancestors are shouting words of encouragement.  They are reminding me to honor the past by continuing their legacy.  They are encouraging me to remind the family of who we are and where we've been.  I am also encouraged to live my life fully in the present in order to continue building on the foundation laid for me.

I honor Sam, Gail, Ethel, Joe, Lily, Eliza, Jerelyn, Dock, Mattie, Granville, Earl, James, Eula, Mae, Mildred, Elijah, Easter, Adeline, John, Joe, Willie Mae, and so many others.  These are my people. I'm standing on their shoulders.  I carry them with me when I walk on distant lands.  They are with me when I cross oceans.  I am here because of the sacrifices that they made.  This is my heritage.

Lights, camera, action?

I added the Northern/Southern Lights to my travel bucket list about 2-3 years ago. The Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis) can be seen in Norway, Greenland, Iceland, Swedish and Finnish Lapland, Scotland, Siberia, Canada and Alaska. The Southern Lights (Aurora Australis) are seen in Antarctica, Chile, Argentina, South Africa, New Zealand and Australia. I didn't care about the location, as long as I could witness the naturally occurring phenomenon. In fact, I named my latest car, Aurora, because that's her Roman name and because I aspired to see the Aurora. I started scoping out my options, and found that there were more opportunities in the northern hemisphere versus the southern hemisphere, and they are most visible from late September to early spring. I wanted to plan a trip around my birthday in January, and I looked into various packages. Then, an angel, called Groupon, sent me an alert about a package to Iceland that included hotel, airfare, and the Northern Lights. Bonus: The trip would begin the day after my birthday. Of course, I jumped on that deal. Months later, my friend told me she was interested in going too, so I sent her the Groupon.  The price had increased, but it was still inexpensive.   

The time came for us to leave, and I was so excited. I packed for the cold weather and I researched how to capture the best images of the Aurora. We arrived in Reykjavik early Monday morning, and we were scheduled for the Northern Lights tour that evening at 8:30. The Customs Officer told us that they were at level orange, and expecting a big storm that day. Iceland has 3 weather alert levels - yellow, orange, and red. That wasn't a good sign, but I remained optimistic. After we checked in the hotel, the reception desk told us to check around 4 or 5pm to confirm that the tour was still happening. We did just that. On night 1, the tour was canceled due to the snow storm. Well, that was disappointing! The tour company included a disclaimer with the package, because we were subject to the elements, so we knew that they would reschedule the tour. 

The next day started with hope. Again, there were clouds that prevented us from going. We had 1 more night available before going home. I slept until almost noon. When I finally went downstairs, I saw a sign at the reception desk listing all the tour cancellations. Noooooooo! Not again! The receptionist told me there might be a small chance of seeing the lights at night near the hotel if I walked toward the bay away from the city lights. I went downstairs around 10:30 that night. The receptionist on duty recommended going to the highest floor of the hotel first to catch a glimpse before traipsing outside. I didn't see anything from the hotel, so I walked outside, crossed the street, and arrived at the path around the bay. I saw other people standing there searching for a break in the clouds just like me. I walked back to the hotel disappointed. Another tourist told me that she heard there might be an opportunity early in the morning between 4 and 6 am. I didn't want to leave Iceland without exhausting all possibilities, so I set my alarm for 5:30am. I woke up and dressed for the bitter cold again before walking upstairs. I walked on the outside stairs, and as I approached the 7th floor, my snow boots sank into the fresh snow. That wasn't a good sign. I arrived at the balcony and could barely see the street down below with the wild wind blowing thick white snow all around me.  I retreated downstairs and got back into bed. 

Next time, Aurora, next time...

Looking out over the bay

 

Between 2 Worlds

For the second time in my life, I stood at the intersection of two continents.  The first time was in 2016 when I visited Istanbul, Turkey where Europe and Asia meet.  Most recently though I was on the tectonic plates that divide North America and Europe at Pingvellir in Reykjavik, Iceland.  Iceland is full of natural wonders.  I saw an amazing waterfall, called Gullfoss.  It was such a majestic site covered in ice and snow with a thunderous waterfall roaring through the valley. 

Pingvellir

Pingvellir

Gullfoss

Gullfoss

My next adventure

I created this blog in 2008, because I wanted to document my first experience in India. Over the years I have shared many (not all) of my adventures. I've traveled domestically and internationally, with friends and alone. I've taken trains, planes, automobiles, boats, and bikes across 6 continents. I've walked and ran many miles on those continents too. I've eaten amazing food from home kitchens and local restaurants. I've done some things I didn't think I would do, like zip lining, jumping off a cliff, bathing an elephant, riding a camel, and vacationing nude. 

My latest/next adventure is the biggest thing I've ever done. This adventure changes my life completely. I am preparing to be a mother. Of course, I am documenting this new journey too. I believe that everything that I experienced before will help me be the best mother I can be. To read more about my new adventure, follow the blog, That Mother Lode.

Love in the time of Covid

In the summer of 2019, I decided that I was going to visit Machu Picchu in 2020. I started looking at flights and various tours. In the midst of my searching, I received an email from Living in the Light about a retreat in Peru in March of 2020. I would be able to enjoy a wellness retreat, visit Machu Picchu, and see Lima within the same trip. I immediately decided that once again the retreat came at the perfect time for me.  I wouldn't have to plan anything other than my flights, so this was a win. I made the reservations and I was ready to go. My flight was scheduled to depart for Peru on March 13, 2020. However, I received a cancellation email from United Airlines on March 12. After that weekend, the world as we knew it came to a stop due to the Covid-19 global pandemic. In the spring of 2020, we foolishly thought things would be normal again by the fall. The retreat was rescheduled for August 2020, then March 2021.

In the meantime, all international travel was on hold. My last international flight was to Mexico for my birthday in January 2020. I flew to Chicago for a funeral in June. I remained grounded after that, but I didn't stop exploring. I embarked upon road trips around Texas, and had a good time visiting new places and revisiting others with great companions.

During 2020 and the first half of 2021, I experienced loss, as did the rest of the world. Life changed dramatically.  The world that I knew changed.  We lost my mom's 2 surviving sisters - Aunt Mae, my rock, and Aunt Mil, my great tree - as well as other loved ones. There was a lot of grief and pain. However, what I felt most was love. Love from my family and friends, love from God through grace, and love for myself. I knew things would be better.

The Living in the Light retreat was rescheduled to August 2021. Before leaving home for the airport in Houston, I paused to think about what I wanted to take with me to this sacred space built by the Incas, and my eyes landed on Aunt Mil's tam. It was easy to carry and fit easily into my already full bag. "Auntie's beautiful, cute, educated, pretty, sweet, little traveling niece" finally visited Machu Picchu and took a symbol of the giants who built the platform for me to stand. While there, I carried with me the love and light that I received, and I radiated joy. It wasn't because of the location though. It was inside of me all along and I only had to recognize it like Dorothy.

Sun Gate that the sun illuminates only during the solstice

Frequently Asked Questions for "Operation Let Go"

I fulfilled my dream of traveling around the world in 2018. After returning home, I was asked the following questions by many (many) people.

Where did you go? How long did you stay in each place?

Thailand (1 month) - Chiang Mai, Pai, Bangkok, Krabi/Ao Nang

Singapore (1 week)

Malaysia (2 weeks) - Kuala Lampur

Indonesia (1 month) - Lombok, Gili Trawagan

India (1.5 month) - Delhi, Jaipur, Ft. Cochin (Kerala), Mumbai, Nashik

United Arab Emirates (UAE)  (1 week) - Dubai, Abu Dhabi

South Africa  (2.5 weeks) - Johannesburg, Pretoria, Cape Town, Port Elizabeth

Ethiopia (7 hours) - Addis Ababa (long layover)

Egypt (5 days) - Cairo, Alexandria, Memphis, Giza

Netherlands  ( 24 hours) - Amsterdam (overnight layover)

The length of time was based on visa restrictions, things to do/see, and whether I wanted to stay longer before moving to the next location.

How long were you gone?

July 2018 to December 2018

Are you back back?

For now...

Did you travel alone?

I was alone most of the time. I'm an introvert, so being alone wasn't a big deal for me.  I made an effort to connect throughout my journey by going to Toastmasters meetings and joining black expat groups in various countries.  I also met people when I took group tours. Talking to other people sometimes helped me figure out where I wanted to go next. My boyfriend came to visit me in 3 cities too. 

Did you run out of money?

No, I did really well with my budget and was still able to do everything I wanted.

Did you have a lot of luggage or did you backpack? How did you know what to take?

I took a backpack and a small carry-on bag. I also used a small day bag for my daily adventures that usually included water, poncho/umbrella, snacks, battery pack, and a sarong. I researched female packing lists on Pinterest to help me get started and made adjustments as needed. My motto when it comes to luggage is, "Don't you carry nothing that might be a load." I need to be able to handle all my luggage by myself, which could include walking up and down steps or running through the airport.  See my packing list here.

What was your favorite place?

I liked them all for different reasons and wouldn't mind revisiting a few places. I can see myself living in Chiang Mai and Johannesburg.

What was your favorite moment?

I had lots of favorites. My most fulfilling moments happened while volunteering in Indonesia and visiting Ubuntu Centre in Port Elizabeth.

Would you do it again? 

Yes!

Why did you travel around the world by yourself? 

I took the journey because I dreamed about it for years. I finally decided that there was no time like the present, and I needed to do it while I could. I did it alone because I wasn't going to wait until other people could save money, retire, get married/divorced, send the kids off to college, etc. It was a solo journey because that worked best for me. 

Were you scared?

Yes. The scariest part was buying a one-way ticket and not knowing where I would end up. Also, the Indian trains were a formidable foe.  In general, my safety plan included the following:

• Buying travel insurance (My personal belief is to always have insurance if it will cost more than $400 for me to get home. I don't leave home without it.)
• Having regular check-in calls, forwarding flights and room info. to my mom, telling my hosts about my plans for the day (someone always knew where to find me)
• State department country registration in case of evacuation
• Trying to blend in as much as possible, which was impossible everywhere, except for South Africa. Sometimes my foreignness was also protection, because everyone noticed me. Drivers stopped and stared when I crossed the street instead of flying through intersections. People were very helpful in many cases because they wanted to be good hosts to an obvious outsider.
• Using my American privilege when needed (hurting Westerners brings bad publicity to an area and can cripple tourism)
• Asking local friends and hosts to translate and/or make travel plans for me when needed
• Sharing Uber ride info., especially at night 
• Being always aware of my surroundings and knowing how to get back "home". I saved offline directions on my phone just in case there was no internet access and I also used local paper maps when available. I ducked into businesses or restrooms to reorient myself privately if I was lost.

Pack light

Here's an update on my packing list for Operation Let Go.

• One of the straps on my backpack was ripped apart when I landed in Krabi. Amazon gave me a refund, and I ordered a new one.
• My Fitbit charger broke when I pulled it out of my bag. I ordered a new one on Amazon after an unfruitful search in Bangkok.
• I ordered hiking boots after I arrived in Chiang Mai, but they were returned before I wore them.
• I was given 5-finger "Vibranium" shoes that replaced my running shoes, swim shoes, and hiking boots.  I only carried those shoes and flip flops.
• I needed safety equipment and camping supplies for my volunteer work in Indonesia. I added the following: safety glasses, work gloves, quick dry cargo pants, mosquito net, inflatable mattress pad, compact sleeping bag, and steel toe boots. It took some very creative packing to fit everything in my bags. I wore the boots in the airport so I wouldn't have to carry them. I walked like Herman Munster in those heavy boots.
• I mailed some souvenirs and clothes home while in Ft. Cochin and Mumbai to make room for other things I might find along the way.
• I bought another sarong. The versatility is amazing. It can be used as a towel, a bed cover, a headwrap, a dress/top, a covering for temples, a blanket, and more.
• compact towel

Returns

• FAMU hoodie that I only wore on planes, but it would have been nice to have it in South Africa
• Cotton yoga pants - too hot
• 2 Tank tops
• Extra underwear and socks - I only needed socks for my boots and on long flights. 
• Tankini - I wore my one-piece swimsuit if there was a swimming opportunity.

I am grateful for my boyfriend. He was my courier. I had Amazon packages delivered to him, and he would bring them to me when he visited. He also took all my unwanted/unnecessary items back home to lighten my load. Thank you, JaVar!

Ubuntu

From my time in South Africa in December 2018:

South Africa felt like home.  I saw people around me who reminded me of friends, family, classmates, etc. that I knew in the US.  I visited 4 South African cities - Johannesburg (aka Joberg or Jozi), Pretoria, Cape Town, and Port Elizabeth (PE). I traveled by Greyhound bus (not the American company) from Pretoria to Cape Town, stayed for a few days, and then took the bus to PE. After a few days in PE, I rode the bus back to Pretoria. In each city, I experienced the spirit of Ubuntu.  Ubuntu is a Bantu concept from southern Africa, which connotes human connection, and is sometimes defined with the phrase, "I am because we are".  It essentially means that all humans are connected, and when we recognize our common humanity, then we treat each other with respect, humility, compassion, and love.

I had a bright idea to travel across Africa overland from Cape Town to Cairo, but I didn't have much time to plan the trip myself, and the tour companies were pretty expensive. I will return to the continent one day and make it happen.

South Africa was more than I expected, and it was exactly what I needed at that time. I heard several people from SA, Egypt, and Ethiopia describe the country as "different from the rest of Africa" and "Africa-lite". To me, it was a great blend of the familiar and the exotic. It was very western in many ways, and still traditional in other ways. The country is still shedding the cloak of apartheid and mistakes have been made along the way, yet there is hope and optimism as they continue to develop. I could see myself living there.

Johannesburg
Joberg seemed to be the soul of South Africa. It felt alive to me. The city buzzed with excitement and energy. It was in Johannesburg and nearby Soweto where many political fights against apartheid happened. One of the things I loved the most was that I finally had someone else wash, retighten, and style my hair, which hasn't happened in years. I also saw a movie at a small arthouse theater in Maboneng, called "High Fantasy". I purchased a ticket for the City Sightseeing Bus to go around the city and see the most popular landmarks, like the Apartheid Museum, Constitution Hill, and the Carlton Centre (Africa's tallest building). As much as I enjoyed Joberg, the city has a bad reputation amongst tourists and other South Africans. People like to highlight crimes committed in the area, however, I view it as any other big city where you always should be on alert. A Capetonian told me that "Johannesburg is like Chicago". Maybe that's true. He meant it negatively, but I know that there is much more good in Chicago than the violence that is continuously reported, and the same goes for Joberg.

 

Pretoria
When I was considering covering the continent, I reached out to a couple of friends with African connections, and one of them led me to Pretoria. The city is one of 3 South African capitals, and it is located about 45-60 minutes from Johannesburg. It is calm and relatively quiet compared to neighboring Joberg. I stayed with my new family in Pretoria. I was initially confused when they told me they spoke Swahili, because I knew it was considered more of a central/eastern African language. I also figured that Swahili wasn't one of the 11 official languages of South Africa. It made more sense when I learned that they immigrated from Rwanda by way of Congo to South Africa. The family made me feel so welcomed and comfortable in their home. I was the first American visitor they had, and they invited friends to come meet me while I was there. I was also the first vegetarian, which was a curve they didn't expect. I had great food prepared for me, and I also showed them how to stir fry broccoli with onions and peppers. We later added carrots and potatoes. It was the first time they had cooked broccoli at home.  They introduced me to the dramatic South African "soapies", like "The Queen", "Scandal", "Rhythm City", and other nightly soap operas with varied story lines that all seemed to run together.  The kids took me on a brief tour of the city. There's not much to see in Pretoria other than the Union House capital building. We also went to a nature park on a hill overlooking the city. We stopped at the city's bus station too. I wanted to rent a car and drive from Pretoria to Cape Town to Port Elizabeth along the garden route, but it was much cheaper and easier to take the bus. I also was unsure of my driving skills on the opposite side of the road and car. My new family helped me find the right ticket and took me to the bus station to see me off. They took great care of me. I returned to Pretoria for a couple of days before I left the country. It felt good being surrounded by family.

Cape Town
The bus to Cape Town took nearly a day and was a few hours behind schedule. We stopped in every little town between Johannesburg and Cape Town (almost 900 miles) with a break of 15 minutes every 3-4 hours. Most of the journey was at night. I know I could have flown, but I wanted to see as much of the country as possible. South Africa's landscape is magnificent. I passed by farmland, vineyards, mountains, and grassy prairies. The view of Table Mountain welcomed me into the city of Cape Town, the final bus stop.  The natural beauty of the city was captivating.  I found it very ironic though that this city that was surrounded by water was experiencing an extreme drought and so was the rest of the South African cape (coast).  Evidence of the drought was everywhere.  Residents and businesses were required to follow strict water restrictions.  For example, I saw public restrooms with 8 or 9 sinks, but the taps were only open for 2.  Signs around the restrooms asked visitors to restrict flushing unless necessary and use alcohol-based hand sanitizer.  Homeowners were not allowed to fill their pools and each home had a per person water quota that included fines for overuse.  It's a good thing I learned how to be efficient with bucket showers in Indonesia.

Once again, I found it cost effective to tour the city on the City Sightseeing Bus, so I bought a 2-day pass that included all the major points of interest, plus a canal tour, sunset view of Table Mountain, and a stop at wineries. I took the city bus downtown in order to start the tour each day.  I also purchased a ticket for a city bike tour, which included Bokaap, the former home of enslaved Muslims that is now being gentrified.

Table Mountain

"Tupac Amaru Shakur is alive...I think he's in Canada." - Mr. Steward

 

Port Elizabeth
I arrived on the bus from Cape Town not knowing what to expect in Port Elizabeth (PE).  What I encountered was much more than I dreamed possible.
The day before I arrived, my Airbnb host contacted me asking if I would be interested in a township tour when I arrived.  Of course I said "yes!".  My tour would include Zwide Township where my host, Nick, grew up.

The first night of my arrival, we watched the Global Citizen concert celebrating Nelson Mandela live on tv from Johannesburg. His daughters walked out on stage and greeted the South African audience with the familiar "Amandla!"(power), and I responded along with the audience, "Awethu!" (to the people). Nick was shocked that I knew the popular Nguni phrase used by freedom fighters during apartheid. I told him that I was in the process of creating a nonprofit organization focused on empowering communities through education, and it would be called "Amandla!" He was impressed.

The next morning, Nick and his girlfriend took me to the township, and pointed out meaningful landmarks along the way. Our first stop was the Ubuntu Centre. The center included a clinic for HIV/AIDS patients, a nursery school for families being treated by the clinic, a cafe, a vocational school, a computer lab, and much more. It started with a couple of volunteers tutoring students in a broom closet at a school several years ago, and became a beacon of hope in the middle of the township. Our tour was led by the Deputy President, Gcobani, who enthusiastically shared the history as well as the future goals of Ubuntu. He also tried to teach me Xhosa words along the way. We were only supposed to spend 30 minutes at the center, but we actually stayed for 2 hours, and I loved every minute. Nick knew from our conversation the night before that the work they were doing was important to me. I could have stayed all day. Seeing the Ubuntu Center gave me visual confirmation of my dream for Amandla! I saw what was possible.

After leaving Ubuntu, we visited the local school where the program first began, and where Nick attended. The students were on break, and we toured the building on our own after checking in with the office. I saw the broom closet. I saw the computer lab that was donated to the school by Ubuntu after they moved to a bigger space. I also saw the classrooms and schoolyard, and was quickly reminded of scenes from Sarafina. From the school, we went to a new business development center for entrepreneurs. The business that we visited was a bread shop owned by a woman. We watched her take the balls of dough and fry them on a hot plate. Her business was doing so well that she no longer had space to make the bread from her home, and she won a grant for cooking equipment that still needed to be installed after the electricity was properly setup. We bought a few pieces of bread and took them to Nick's mother's home for a snack. His mother reminded me of my aunt. She was generous, kind, and gave all praise to God for everything.

Many people have asked me if I would want to live in any of the countries that I visited on my journey, and I enthusiastically tell them that I could see myself living in South Africa and Thailand. I absolutely loved my time in South Africa, and I look forward to going back again.

...where there's love overflowing

I have run the race set before me. My current journey is coming to an end. I have seen places and met people throughout this journey that helped me create memories that will last a lifetime. I have experienced things that I never thought I would. I have done things that scared me, and did them afraid. I have expanded my mind and my heart. I helped people who were suffering. I found ways to communicate without words. I formed new relationships with people who really aren't so different from me. I trusted people in a way that I never have before. I let go.

The long journey home has just began. I am currently on a flight from Cairo and I will arrive in Houston in 2 and a half days. When looking at flights home, I had an option with a much shorter duration, but I found that I could see more cities in between for just a little more money. I'm flying from Cairo to Athens, and then I have 29 hours in Amsterdam. I'm leaving the airport to check out the city of course. After Amsterdam, I'm flying to Manchester, England where I have a 12 hour layover before finally flying to Houston. My return is a surprise to everyone at home. I'm both excited and scared right now, which is exactly how I felt before leaving home in July. I'm excited about going home and being with the people I love most and where things are convenient and familiar. I'm scared because I am a different person now, and I won't be going back to life as I knew it before. I have changed and the way that I do things in the future will change. The scariest part is I don't know exactly how those changes will play out. I'm still processing what happens next. All I know is I'm walking into a new life, because I let go.