Showing posts with label shopping. Show all posts
Showing posts with label shopping. Show all posts

Tuesday, April 15, 2008

Sari, Baby, Henna

All the ladies on our team wore saris on last Monday for Gudi Padava, or the New Year. It was the celebration for N. Indians, but each region seems to have their own date to commemorate the New Year. S. Indians and Bengalis celebrated the New Year on yesterday. I brought my sari to work with me on last Monday so the ladies could show me how to wear it. It took 3 of them to put the pins in the right place and make me look like a proper Indian woman. I was amazed that they were able to dress themselves at home with no help, because it seems like a very complex process to get the pleats and things looking just right. They told me that it comes with practice. After they wrapped me in the sari, we took pictures – first in the bathroom and then out on the terrace of the office building. The sun was setting and provided just enough light to show off the beautiful colors on the ladies. It felt like we were doing a photo shoot. Saris range in colors and designs, and come in many different fabrics, including cotton, silk, etc. with or without sequins, embroidery, and other embellishments. You can get a good sari for Rs 500 – 1000 (around 25 USD), but they become more expensive (Rs 10000 or more) if there is a lot of embroidery or special work, like for weddings. The sari is a long piece of cloth, probably around 3 yards that is wrapped around the woman’s body in different ways. They showed me about 4 different methods of wrapping the top usually based on the region. One size fits all. The sari is pretty comfortable to wear when sitting, but it can make walking challenging. It is very similar to wearing a ball gown like a wedding dress or debutante dress, because you have to kick the dress out while you walk to avoid stepping on it. You also have to remember to raise it up when walking up stairs so you won’t trip on it. (I forgot that a couple of times.) It can also be cumbersome if you choose to wear it so it drapes over your arm. Your arm will become tired of holding it up and you also have to worry about it slipping off when you move. Overall, I enjoyed the experience and look forward to another occasion where I can wear my sari. I felt like a princess.

I didn’t do much around the hotel last week. I was happy that I had options for food and entertainment between sleeping and working. However, I almost had a Naomi Campbell moment in a store. I ran out of contact solution, and I went to the mall to buy more. Contacts are not a popular option here. Each of the malls next to my hotel has a supermarket named “Food Bazaar”. Neither of them had solution, but I remembered seeing it somewhere in the mall previously. I saw the Health and Beauty Store that I swore I wouldn’t go back to after they followed me around the last time and I practically ran out so I could breathe. I was desperate, so I gave it a shot anyway. The store is around 200 square feet with 3 small bisecting aisles. It is tiny and crammed with all kinds of cosmetics, fragrances, and personal products that you would find at your local Walgreen’s. Every 3 feet, someone stopped to ask me if wanted to try whatever was in their tiny section. That store was way too small to have that many people working there. They should have had no more than 3 employees in the store at one time. The solution was on the back wall. I was standing in the middle of that aisle with 3 sales people on each side of me. I wanted to scream. I proceeded to the counter to pay for it, and the guy told me it was Rs 145. The sign said 90. I walked back over to that aisle with my entourage and showed him the price. He said that was the old amount. Can you say price gauging? If I didn’t need the solution so badly, and if I had another option nearby, I would have walked out and never returned. But, he had me.

My co-worker, Sushuma (pronounced Sooshma), invited me to her baby shower on Sunday. I was excited to participate in traditional festivities. Anita told me a little bit about what to expect at an Indian shower. There are some distinct differences between Indian and American baby showers. First of all, the shower is to celebrate the mother-to-be only. People do not give gifts for the baby. Instead, the mother is showered with money, food, clothing, and other gifts. People do not give gifts for the baby until after he/she is born. The second difference is that there are no silly games. The focus is totally on the mother. We arrived at the apartment where the shower was held, and there were already a few older women sitting on the floor. More and more women arrived as the party went on. Sushuma sat on a decorated swing with a small table in front of her. Each guest blessed her by putting a red dot on her forehead, pouring rice and coconuts in her lap, feeding her a bit of a sweet, and giving her whatever gift they brought. First, her mother-in-law and her mother did special blessings with a candle. Next, other elders did something similar. Then, younger married women blessed her, followed by unmarried younger women. Those who came in late took their turns also. After all the women had blessed her, some of the older women started singing songs to her. It was a very nice affair. However, we heard the incessant sound of Fur Elise during the whole ceremony. The door to the apartment was open, and every time someone opened the gate to the elevator, the song would play. Everyone else seemed to ignore it. After all the blessings and songs, we proceeded downstairs where there was a tent setup on the patio. Both men and women partook in the reception. The food (veg) was good and it was a really nice night. We took a few more pictures with Sushuma before leaving.

Yesterday, I took a rickshaw to a street close to my hotel with several markets and shops. I could have walked, but it was too hot for that. I wore a hat, but people still seemed to stare at me. I saw a few items I wanted to buy for my nephews, but they cost just as much (or more) than adult clothes. Since that was my first time shopping for children’s clothes alone, I thought I should wait until I could talk to Anita or Sarika about how much they should cost. Later, Anita told me they were priced correctly, and that the stores charge more to make clothing for children because they have to cut the material smaller, or so they say. I went to another shop with reasonably priced dress material for women. They had their own tailor that could make the pieces for you. Tailors are very common here. I chose some material that I liked, but I wanted it made into western-styled summer dresses, not a salwar kameez. The material for a salwar kameez comes in 2 pieces with different patterns. One piece is used for the top and the other is used for the pants. There is a scarf too. It cost about $7 more for me to have 2 dresses made from the material. The owner and his wife were very friendly. She asked me if I was South African even though my hair was covered. I told her I was an American here for business. She had a salon above the store and asked me if I wanted to go up for any services. I asked her how much she charged for henna. I’ve been considering henna for my hair for a while, but I just hadn’t gotten around to doing it. I knew that I had to do it while in India, since it’s so common here. Henna is a natural dye that is used on hair and also to temporarily tattoo skin (also called mehinde). The natural color of henna is reddish, but it can be modified with other ingredients to produce brown tones or black. It has conditioning properties that strengthen the hair also. The lady applied the henna, and an hour later, my hair had a red tint very similar to the color I dyed my hair a few years ago. I was very pleased with the color, but they did not know how to wash my hair. LOL

I didn't think I would need to use my International SOS card for medical emergencies, but I had to make that call a few minutes ago. I've developed a rash all over my torso, back, and neck. While I was at work tonight, I kept scratching my back thinking that mosquito bites were making me itch. I looked in the mirror when I got to the hotel and saw red patches all over my upper body - not mosquito bites. I have no idea what caused it. SOS advised me to take some Benadryl, which I brought in my emergency medical kit, and they are going to schedule an appointment for me tomorrow with an English-speaking doctor. We'll see what happens. I just want to stop itching.

Sunday, March 23, 2008

busy day

Today was one big adventure. I woke up around 6am and couldn't go back to sleep. I read a little bit before showering and going downstairs for breakfast. The hotel staff greeted me. "Good morning, Ms. Stephens." I like to sit by the window of the restaurant facing the pool, but that is the smoker's section. Thankfully, none of the smokers came down while I was eating my breakfast, so I ate in peace. (Aside: Why do smokers always get the good seats by the windows or the patio?) I was dressed and knew that I was going to do something other than stay in my room today, but I didn't know what that something was. I went back to my room and saw that it was still too early to call anyone. I waited a couple of hours before picking up my phone. Something was wrong with the phone and it wouldn't allow me to dial out. I had to use the phone in the room to call one of my co-workers. We were going to the mall, but she had to run a few errands before she could go. She asked if I wanted to join her and I accepted. I had to figure out how I would get to her place. She, like most Mumbaikers, does not drive. I'd asked the guy at the front desk if the hotel had a car for rent earlier in the day. He said it starts at Rs1200 for 2 hours and goes up from there. That was much too expensive. After talking to Moumita, I decided I would try a rickshaw. She gave me her address and I proceeded downstairs. I asked the front desk guy where I could catch the rickshaw and how much I should expect to pay. I went outside to the street and a rickshaw just happened to be coming my way. I told him where I was going ( I wrote the address on a slip of paper) and got in. On the way there, he stopped to ask one of his buddies exactly where it was. I arrived at my destination within 15 minutes. Moumita met me outside and we proceeded to her flat.


The apartment was small (appx 500 sq. ft.). Her roommate has a 2.5 year old named Advev aka Chucky. He was really shy and wouldn't talk to me at first. Then, he warmed up to me and we started playing together. He even shook my hand later in the rickshaw (it was a game to him), and he laid his head on my shoulder. His mother, Rashmi, told me that she's separated from her husband. It seems that it is becoming a trend in Mumbai for men to walk away from their families in a place where it was unthought of in the not so distant past. Divorce has a horrible stigma in Indian society. The woman and her family feels the brunt of it, and she is treated very badly for the rest of her life.


We went to the bank and grocery store. The store had three levels - groceries on 1, clothes on 2, and housewares on 3. It was a fairly inexpensive market. We went back to the flat for lunch. Rashmi cooked chicken curry South Indian style. We sat and talked for a while after lunch. I was invited to hang out with them again next weekend. The power went out for about 30 minutes and the apartment became a sweatbox. I hadn't heard Chucky speak a lick of English all day, but suddenly he started saying "electricity" over and over again. The power goes out twice a day in the city. I know that the power goes out at the hotel during the day, but it always comes back on a few seconds later. I suppose they have back-up generators at the hotel. I didn't realize it was happening all over the city. So many of us take it for granted that when we flip the switch we have light and air. Local residents also have to boil their water to remove impurities.


I had to use the loo before leaving for the mall. I walked in and immediately walked back out. I
needed instructions on how to use the toilet! I'd read about the Indian-style toilet, but I really wasn't expecting to ever use it. The hotel has modern Western facilities, and the office combines both styles. They don't use tissue, but a hose to rinse themselves. See the picture.


Later, we went to the flea market in a rickshaw. There were lots of people and dogs perusing the open market. Across the street from the market, hawkers had their wares on the sidwalks. We left the flea market and headed to the mall. Two malls were literally feet away from each other. The malls were bigger than the one I visited last week. One of them looked like it was plucked from LA and transplanted to Mumbai. All around were name-brand stores like Reebok, Wrangler, United Colors of Benetton, etc.



All day long, I was the main attraction. I don't like being the center of attention for everyone. I don't know what it was about me that made everyone stop and stare. I wore jeans and a t-shirt, which is not uncommon; especially not in the mall with all the Western stores. (I was surprised to see a couple of women with spaghetti straps.) Was it my skin? Half of the people around me, including Rashmi, were my complexion or darker. Maybe it was my hair. It is currently twisted, and I pinned the back up in a bun. At first , the attention was subtle, and I didn't mind it so much. There were a lot of double takes. People saw me and then had to look again to be sure they saw what they thought they saw. A couple of people in the grocery casually tapped their friends to tell them to look at me. One little girl gave me a really mean look, but I saw her do that to other people and realized she was probally just a mean little girl. When we walked around the flea market, people stared at me. There was a lady walking directly behind me. I think she was studying my hair. Every time I turned around, she was grinning at the back of my head almost tripping over me. At the malls, I was profiled. Store clerks stayed 2 feet behind me at all times. In one department store, 4 of the clerks crowded around the rack I was looking at and looked away when I looked up at them. Later, a woman snapped a picture of me with her camera phone on the escalator. I was trying my best not to be the stereotypical ABW, but I was getting annoyed. We went to the food court on the top floor. Rashmi and I split up to get our items. As I walked down the corridor, a woman did a total 360 when she saw me. She was facing me as I walked toward her and she turned her body completely around when I passed her. I turned back and looked at her, and she hurriedly looked away. I was so ready to get out of there. I didn't tell my shopping companions what was happening. The next time I go out in public, I'll wear a salwar kameez and cover my hair. I would like to see if that makes a difference in their reactions to me.



Rashmi and I left the mall together and took a rickshaw. Her flat is on the way to my hotel, so the driver dropped her off and continued on. I arrived at the hotel with just enough time to tune into Easter Sunday service online at my church. I logged in and was unable to view it. I tried another ministry and was unable to view it also. I was very disappointed. Last night, I wanted to watch Netflix movies online, but they are only available in the US. I thought Streaming Faith was available worldwide, but I guess not. UGH. After that disappointment, I was hungry, so I ordered room service. All I wanted was a sandwich and fries, no sauce/gravy or exotic spices. I had a good dinner and talked to an old friend online for a while.



Today was a very full day.

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

It is 6:02am, and I'm awake. Why am I awake when I really should be sleeping? I'm hungry. The hotel has continental breakfast at 7am and I'm forcing myself to stay awake for free food. If I had gone to sleep when I got here at 4:30, I would have slept through breakfast and woken up a lot later, a lot hungrier. Also, the lunch here is really expensive, and I don't have any alternatives. Yesterday, my lunch was over Rs 900 (appx. $22). I have a per diem, but I'd rather spend the money on other things (that last longer). There is a method to my madness. I'm spending the time catching up on emails and paying bills. I'm also listening to Barack Obama's speech on race, but it keeps stopping at the same point. Don't they know I don't have time to stop and read the full transcript!

I went to work on Monday night and was pleased to finally get out of the hotel. I also had the opportunity to see the area around the hotel in daylight. There are office buildings on the same street and an open lot across from the offices. That lot has a couple of make-shift tin houses and cows. Yes, cows. The drive from the hotel to the office is around 30 minutes. There's a lot of traffic because people on the day shift leave at the same time. I saw the sunset on my way to work. It's amazing to think that I'm watching the same lowering sun that my family is watching rise. The office is located in an area that was formerly a village. When you drive into the business park, you'll still see a few leftover tin houses, more aptly described as lean-tos, and various street vendors. The actual office building is better that I imagined, and the associates are very friendly. As soon as I told them where I was staying, they knew that there was nothing for me to do in the area. Several of them live in close proximity and said that they would show me around. Thank you Jesus!

I went to the mall on Tuesday afternoon. My friend, Sarika, came to the hotel to pick me up and her friend drove us there. I met Sarika when she came to The Woodlands over 2 years ago. On the way to the mall, we passed several buildings that are under construction and look nothing like the rest of the city. This is probably the area that I passed on my way from the airport. We went to Center One Mall, which is across the street from another mall, which is next to a new mall under construction. Materialism at work. The funny thing is that in the midst of all these new structures and shopping malls, there is a field of cows. Cows just appear randomly here. The cow field is next to a large bookstore on a busy street that connects the 2.5 malls in the area. Very random. The mall is relatively small compared to American monoliths. It had several stores that you might see in the US, as well as distinctly Indian stores. Before entering the mall, we had to go through a metal detector and the guards checked our bags. I had my laptop bag with me because we were going directly to work from there. I bought a kurti (shirt) and salwar kameez (top with pants). See the links for examples. I also bought some beautiful material for making your own salwar kameez, but I want to use it to do something else. I will be firing up the sewing machine when I get home.

Kurti:
http://eshop.ahmedabad.com/shop/product/apparels_&_accessories/womens_wear/kurtis/True_Bllue/30986
Salwar Kameez: http://eshop.ahmedabad.com/shop/product/apparels_&_accessories/womens_wear/salwar_kameez/InVogue/50386
http://eshop.ahmedabad.com/shop/product/apparels_&_accessories/womens_wear/salwar_kameez/InVogue/50385

I saw another black woman at the mall. I thought I was the only one! After shopping, I called my driver to take us to the office. Sarika had to speak to him so that he understood. He speaks limited English. I went to work and came back to the hotel.

The hotel staff makes me feel like a minor celebrity because they all know me. I asked the guy at the front desk about breakfast, and he told me he would call my room with more details. I asked him if he knew my room number, and he said, "Yes, Elizabeth". He knows my name? Wow. I wonder if they talk about me amongst themselves. I have to watch out for the paparazzi.

I've decided to start taking my malaria pills right before I leave for work. Hopefully, it will be easier for me to remember since I leave around the same time everyday. I spray myself with OFF before leaving the room in the hopes that the mosquitoes won't come near me anyway. Let's see how that goes.

Follow-ups to previous posts:
  • Dr. Hak, thanks for the suggestion. I'm getting a lot of ideas here. I actually considered bringing my crochet hooks and yarn right before leaving, and I decided against it. I could have made several projects while stuck at the hotel.
  • You've probably heard of Tata this week. The Indian car company unveiled "The People's Car" yesterday in Geneva. It is small and costs $2500. This is very significant, because this car is expected to make car ownership easy for a country of over a billion people. You can also expect an exponential rise in carbon output, which impacts climate change.
  • I remembered the Nina Simone song when I laid down on Tuesday morning. It's called Sinnerman.

Time for breakfast.