How Great is our God!

8-29-14

As my plane landed, I saw beautiful aerial views of Uluru.  I walked down the stairs from the plane to the ground, and I was surrounded by dry, cool air.  I picked up my bag and walked to the shuttle bus that would take us to the resort.  The bus driver gave a brief overview of the area on the short trip from the airport to the resort.  The area is called Yulara (not the indigenous sounding Ayers Rock) by the Anangu (Ah-nah-new) people who traditionally inhabited the area.  We passed nothing but road signs and tall dry grasses and trees.  We followed the signs to the Voyages Ayers Rock Resort, the only living accommodations in Yulara.

The resort is comprised of several different lodging types that vary based on amenities and cost, but all guests can use the facilities at any of the properties.  The resort is owned and managed by Voyages Indigenous Tourism Australia, which represents the traditional owners and indigenous communities, and purports to use the profits for training and employment.  The resort properties include an apartment complex (Emu Walk), a high-end hotel and spa (Sails in the Desert), a campground, a mid-range hotel (Desert Gardens), and a standard hotel (Outback Pioneer Hotel and Lodge).  I stayed at the Outback Pioneer, which was clean and comfortable.  The lodge part seemed to be ideal for students and backpackers who stayed in dormitory style rooms with a shared/community bathroom.  My room was a standard room with a full-size bed and a twin bed, just like at the Hides Hotel in Cairns.  At the Outback Pioneer, there's a full-scale restaurant, a stall with takeaway sandwiches and burgers, a kitchen for those who want to cook their own food (purchased from the grocery store in town), and a pioneer barbecue option.  The pioneer BBQ is where you can purchase various meats/seafood for a set price and cook them on the grill with a salad/dessert bar included.  There's also a bar, which is the only place in the area to buy bottles of alcohol to take away.  All alcohol purchases require that you show your room key or proof that you're a guest at the resort.  This law is in place to discourage alcoholism amongst the natives.  It's okay if the tourists are drunk and belligerent though. (insert eye roll)

I arrived at the hotel around 10:30am, but I was told that my room wasn't ready.  The guaranteed check-in time was at 3pm, but the clerk told me I could check back to see if it was ready before that.  I spent the next few hours exploring the hotel and the resort, and periodically checking to see if my room was available.  I was concerned and annoyed because I had a tour scheduled to tour Kata Tjuta (kah-tah joo-tah) at 2:15.  My room wasn't ready until 2pm.  I hurriedly walked to the room and put my bags down.  I didn't have time to do anything else before rushing back to the front to board the tour bus.  When I checked in with the guide, I had to purchase a $25 national park ticket that is required for all guests.  The ticket is good for unlimited visits over 3 days.  The guide also asked me if I had water.  I showed him my full (collapsible) water bottle, and he told me I would need at least a liter of water for the tour in order to prevent dehydration.  I reluctantly bought a bottle of water from the hotel's gift shop.  I was not happy about spending $3.50 on a 12 oz. bottle of water.

sign around the resort

 
I boarded the bus and immediately thought that it must be a senior tour group.  There were a couple of people who looked to be about my age, but most of them were 50 or above.  I would guess that the average age was 55.  Kata Tjuta (kah-tuh joo-tah) means "many heads" in the Anangu language.  Unlike Uluru, it is a conglomerate rock formation.  Millions of years ago the various rocks were fused together when the earth underneath buckled and folded.  They described the rocks as a fruit cake mix or a cookie dough with lots of chunks.  The Anangu only allow tourists to visit 4 of the domes.  All of the others are reserved for ceremonies and traditional practices.  Our tour group would visit the Valley of the Winds at Kata Tjuta and then view the sunset with wine and snacks at the end of the night.  Before we left the bus, our guide, Sarah, and the driver/guide, Carl, explained the different options available to the group based on physical ability.  The whole group walked to the first lookout, which was less than 1km from the bus.  Along the way, Sarah explained the different vegetation that we saw.  After arriving at the first lookout point, our group split up.  Those who wanted to continue to the 2nd lookout point, which was 5.2km roundtrip, would continue with Sarah.  The rest of the group would walk back to the bus with Carl, and he would drive them around to the gorge where they would have a short walk around that area if desired.  I wasn't sure if I would continue when they first told us the options.  However, I felt obligated to go the more challenging route considering I was younger than the others.  I couldn't let those old people beat me.  Ten of us followed Sarah up and down steep paths and over ridges.  Our small group consisted of a couple from Brazil, another couple from Sydney originally from Malaysia, a couple from Switzerland, a couple from New Zealand, and a single woman from Melbourne, named Belinda.  She was traveling solo like me, and loving it.

There were a couple of points where Sarah told us to keep moving without stopping to take pictures because those areas were too steep to lose momentum.  We finally made it to the second lookout point out of breath, but enthralled by the view.  I'm so glad I chose to continue on to this point.  We spent a few minutes there catching our breaths and taking pictures of the tree-filled valley below and the red monuments above.  One of the men  in our group asked me where I was from.  I told him I was from the US and he said, "Kata Tjuta is similar to the Grand Canyon for you, right?"  He and his wife had travelled there the year before.  I told him I'd never visited the Grand Canyon, and he told me I wasn't "truly American" if I've never been there.  I guess I should plan a trip to the Grand Canyon before my citizenship is revoked.

After talking a bit more, we began the trek back to our starting point.  We stopped at one spot when we saw a bird that Sarah called "Willy Wag Tail".  The bird is considered a gossip by the indigenous women.  It flies over and tries to listen to your conversations, and then repeats is as it flies away singing.  As Sarah was telling us about the bird, a couple of people in our group yelled out "kangaroo".  We looked up at the ridge next to us and saw 2 roos hopping down.  They stopped when they heard us, and then proceeded to hide behind a clump of bush.  They emerged again for a few moments before disappearing again.  We waited to see if they would reappear, but they didn't.  Sarah said she'd never seen kangaroos so high in the range before.  It was a marvelous sight for us all.  Once we arrived back at the bus, Carl drove us over to the spot where we would watch the sunset at Kata Tjuta.  We weren't actually watching the sun though.  Our backs were to the sun as we watched the colors of the domes change based on the sun's retreating reflection.  We had wine and snacks as we sat on our stools snapping pictures.  Belinda and I chatted until it was time to board the bus.  We found out that we were both scheduled to see Uluru at sunrise the next morning.  She was also staying at the Outback Pioneer, so we knew we would see each other again early the next morning.

representing Toastmasters

Conglomerate rock up close

Kata Tjuta at sunset

sunset

Kata Tjuta at sunset

The following morning, I woke up at 5am to get dressed to meet my tour at 6am.  My mouth and nose were extremely dry, so I drank some water before leaving my room.  I stepped outside into the cool dark air.  I proceeded towards the lobby to meet my tour, but I turned back around to add another layer between my tank top and my hoodie.  It was COLD!  The temperature range for the day was 6 to 26 degrees Celsius (42.8 to 78.8).  As I walked away from my building, I looked up and saw the blackest sky I have ever seen in my life.  There was no light pollution, so I could see every star clearly.  I stood in awe for a moment before continuing on to the warmth of the lobby.  I guess lots of people had the same idea about the sunrise tour.  I saw Belinda and many other people in the crowded lobby.  We found out we were actually going on 2 different tours.  After sunrise, her group would walk around the base of Uluru.  My tour included breakfast at sunrise, then a walk following the path of the Uluru creation story for Lira and Kuniya.  There are lot of variations on the story of Lira and Kuniya.  Most of the stories and ceremonial details concerning Uluru and Kata Tjuta are kept secret by the Anangu and only shared with initiated men.  They make very clear distinctions between women's business and men's business and do not allow any intersection of the two.  Some of the caves at Uluru are reserved only for Anangu men or women respectively.  Uluru is a solid rock unlike the conglomerate rock found at Kata Tjuta.  From a  distance, Uluru appears to be 1 smooth rock, but up close you see all kinds of divots and crevices created by water and wind erosion over millions of years according to the scientists.  The Anangu believe it was Lira and Kuniya that shaped the rock.

sunrise

in front of Uluru at sunrise

"It's cold.  I'm going to cover everything but my sexy legs."

Our small group consisted of 3 Italians and 1 woman from Melbourne.  We looked at the vegetation around the solid rock (not conglomerate like Kata Tjuta), and the formations of the stone in various shapes including a python (Kuniya).  There was also a watering hole that was used traditionally when the men hunted.  They would wait on the animals to go for a drink while they hid behind them.  If 4 kangaroos went to the watering hole, the men would wait until they were leaving and kill the kangaroo that lagged behind the others.  This kept the other animals from associating the water hole with danger, and the men only killed what was needed to survive.  They did not hunt for trophies.  The animals no longer visit the watering holes though due to pollution.  The scarce water that is collected in the pools is contaminated with e. coli and fecal matter from humans who climb the rock and leave their trash behind.  The Anangu never climbed the rock and they don't want others to tread on this sacred ground either.  However, the Australian government does not enforce it.  They won't stop climbing completely because they believe it will hurt tourism.  For the government to claim its partnership with the Anangu in taking care of the land, I find it very hard to believe they would allow continued desecration of this World Heritage site for tourism dollars.  They claim that they will cease allowing climbers in 2020.


Some of the caves at Uluru were used as shelters by the Anangu, while others were used as classrooms.  We saw one cave that had drawings that scientists dated between 5000 and 60 years ago.  The Anangu used red and yellow ochre as well as charcoal and white rocks to draw symbols similar to other indigenous people around the country.  The symbols would convey messages, maps, and other important information that the group needed to know.  Even though the indigenous people around the country had different languages, tools, and lifestyles, they were all connected to each other through songlines.  Songlines are shared with neighbors and then retold over and over until reaching the other side of the continent.  In this way, the people in the area that is currently Queensland (northeast coast) knew about the people of central Australia (now Northern Territory) through the songs.  This is similar to drumming amongst Native Americans across the Americas as well as the drum signals used on the African continent before settlement (and domination) by whites.  These cultures survived for tens of thousands of years, but have been nearly brought to extinction in just a couple of hundred years due to the Europeans exploiting and enslaving the land and people.  All around the world the same song.

python

cave drawings

in front of the (contaminated) watering hole at Uluru

I later returned to the hotel and took a nap.  I woke up a few hours later and went to the town square for lunch.  After lunch, I walked to each of the art galleries in the resort.  I also visited the Welcome Center where they had a whole exhibit on the area including the plants and wildlife.  I spent a couple of hours walking around reading all about the history until they closed.  I took the shuttle bus back to my hotel after the Welcome Center closed.  I was the only passenger on the shuttle after we dropped off a couple of people.  The driver asked me where I was going, and I told him the Outback Pioneer.  He said I must be American from my accent, and he asked what part of the US I was from.  I told him I was from Texas, and he said, "Everyone carries guns there, yes?"  I told him not everyone in Texas carries a gun, but there are some people who do.  Whenever I told other people I was from Texas, they also asked me about guns and cowboys.  While at the town square, I made a purchase at the bookstore, and the clerk asked if I was using my "res card".  I was confused and said, "What is that?" "Oh. (totally ignoring the question and trying to erase the surprise from her face)  Your total is $__."  I guess my accent must have startled her, and she realized that we don't all look alike.

bracelet made of tree pods

Aboriginal performers mostly from New South Wales

Flags - Australia, Northern Territory (state), Aboriginal, Torres Straits Islands

I went back out that evening and ordered take-away Pad Thai from Ayers Wok Noodle Shop.  I took my dinner over to the outdoor amphitheater where they were showing a movie called, "The Sapphires", an Aboriginal version of Dreamgirls or Sparkle.  It's about 4 girls who learn American soul music so that they can entertain the black American troops in Vietnam during the war.  I didn't see the end of the movie, because I had to leave for my astro tour.  I walked back to the
town square and met with a group that was led into the darkness by 2 guides with flashlights, 1 of whom was an astronomer.  The walk was only 5 minutes away from the buildings, but it was completely dark out there in the bush.  We sat in chairs as the astronomer gave us a brief overview and pointed out a few stars including the southern cross which is only seen in the southern hemisphere.  The southern cross is a huge deal to Aussies and is depicted on their flag.  The astronomer used a laser pointer that reminded me of Luke Skywalker's light sabre to show us exact points in the sky.  We spent the next hour looking at stars, galaxies, constellations, and planets through telescopes.  It was so cool!  Literally and figuratively.  I forgot to add my layers again for the night air, so I bundled up as much as I could and tried to keep the blood flowing by marching in place.  I heard various accents and languages all around me over that hour as we all looked up at the sky in awe.  I have never see the Milky Way or so many stars, in general, with my naked eyes before.
It seems like each day in Australia, I witness more and more miraculous images of creation from the land to the water to the sky and beyond.  There must be a God somewhere!  I am so grateful for the ability and the opportunity to witness such majesty on this earth.  I am also grateful for being physically able to see, hear, touch, smell, and taste all that is around me.  I am glad my body is fit enough to walk and move about freely exploring the landscape of Australia.  Just thinking about all that I have witnessed so far leaves me awestruck.  I am blessed beyond measure.

When I first started writing this post, I thought the title would be "Slippin' into Darkness", the song by War.  However, by the end of my writing, I knew it had to be "How Great is our God".

8-27-14

Yesterday, was another full day.  I was picked up near my hotel and taken to a small village near Cairns, called Kuranda.  I started at Tjapukai (Jah-puh-guy) Aboriginal Cultural Park where there were shows and demonstrations by the indigenous people of the area.  I learned how to throw a boomerang properly so it returns.  I threw spears too, but my skills would leave me hungry if I depended on spearing a kangaroo for food.  The spear doesn't actually kill the kangaroo, but stuns it enough to slow down for the hunter to run over and kill it with a club.  I visited the women's hut, and learned about bush medicine and how different plants and herbs are used as antiseptics, laxatives, anti-diarrheals, headache cures, etc., which was right up my alley.  In the men's hut, I learned about different weapons and forms of punishment delivered to men who disobey the rules set by the clan.  I also learned how didgeridoos are made and the different methods of playing them using circular breathing - blowing out your mouth while inhaling and exhaling through your nose.  It's pretty complicated.  I'm going to practice my circular breathing when I get home.

To make a didgeridoo, the man walks through the woods tapping on small trees listening for a hollow sound.  They are hollowed by termites naturally.  The man takes the tree and cuts it to the desired length.  If it is not completely hollow, he has to burn out the remaining internal wood.  After it is hollowed out completely, he removes the bark and begins smoothing the outside using leaves that feel like sandpaper.  Then, he decorates the outside with the design he desires by carving or painting (with colors from crushed rocks).  The final step is to add beeswax to the smaller end (mouthpiece).  The beeswax will mold to the man's lips and make it comfortable for him to play.  The didgeridoo is traditionally played by men only, and women do not touch them at all.  There's a belief that a woman who touches a didgeridoo will soon become pregnant.

There was also face/body painting and a performance by the Tjapukai Dance Troupe, which included storytelling and details on the instruments like the didgeridoo, clap sticks, and boomerang sticks.  We learned about the different types of clothing that they might wear in the area, including belts made of kangaroo or human hair that were formed much like dreadlocks.  They also showed us how they would produce fire during a ceremony.  At the end of the show, they taught the audience a song and dance and invited people to come to the stage with them.  There was a group of kids on a field trip who looked to be about 4 or 5 who were so excited about dancing on the stage.

Tools in the men's hut

After touring the center, I sat down for a buffet lunch in the center's restaurant followed by painting a story stone.  Then, it was time to head to the skyrail station next door.  I met a family of 4 from NY who were taking the same tour.  They were Lorraine and John and their adult children, Rob, and Genevieve.  Lorraine and I seemed to be the only people who were bold enough to ask questions during the demonstrations, so we heard each other's American accents and hooked up when it was all over.  Rob works in Melbourne, so the family decided to visit for a family vacation.  I also met a guy from Kentucky who works for Chevron in western Australia.  He was in Cairns for a wedding and decided to take a few tours while he was in the area.

The NY family and I boarded a 6-seat Skyrail gondola together.  The skyrail is a cableway that glides above the rainforest.  The rainforest is nationally protected and its also a World Heritage protected site.  The skyrail took 8 years total to be completed - 7 years to receive all the necessary permissions and final sign off to build and 1 year to finally construct it.  Vehicles could not be driven into the rainforest, so equipment was delivered to the workers using helicopters.  The goal was to cause as little disruption to the environment and ecosystem as possible.  Some trees had to be removed and replanted, but only 4 died due to the construction.

We looked down in amazement at the forest canopy and the building structures that became smaller and smaller as we headed toward the sky.  It's a wonder to look at divine creation and human engineering from a bird's eye view literally.  There were a couple of stops along the skyrail where you could walk around underneath the canopy.  There were trees that had been there for hundreds of years or more.  One tree trunk was so thick that it would probably take 10 or more people to wrap around the base.  The park ranger said that it wasn't even fully grown yet, and that it would grow 2 to 3 times wider in 500 years.  We also saw trees that merged to become 1.  In actuality, the fig trees are predators to other trees nearby.  They attach themselves to the host and use the fertile humus created by ferns to grow and nourish themselves while slowly stealing nutrients from the host until it eventually dies underneath and rots front the inside.  The guide also told us that the ferns are favourite resting places for sunbathing pythons.  Why did he tell us that?  However, he said not to worry, because "they're not poisonous, they'll just give you a nice hug."  He told us to look for a purplish glimmer as we passed over the ferns in the skyrail.  We heard a few birds in the forest, but there really seemed to be no life other than the vegetation.  He told us that all of the activity happens at dawn and dusk, and we could come back then to see all of the mostly nocturnal creatures.  No thanks.  We boarded the skyrail again and crossed over the river below looking for "snapping handbags", or crocodiles.  There was a stop at Barron Falls where we could take pictures of the ravine below and the falls.  There were also a few relics from when they first built the power station there nearly a century ago.

Creepy tree hand

Ferns in the branches of other trees

The final stop on the skyrail was at Kuranda Village, a small sleepy town with shops and restaurants catering to tourists.  In fact, most of them closed at 3:30pm , the same time as the last train from the railway station.  Before boarding the Kuranda Scenic Rail, we had a little time to walk around and see the sites.  Most of them sold the same Aussie souvenirs and trinkets, but they also sold locally made products.  One of the ladies from Tjapukai told me that she and many of her family members live in Kuranda, so there are close ties to the indigenous community there.  I snapped a few pictures, and I purchased a few postcards that I thought would be perfect in a frame.  The main purchase though was an authentic didgeridoo.  I have wanted one of my own almost as long as I wanted to see Australia in person.  Back in 2000, my cousin, AJ, did a study abroad program in Australia.  Her pictures and stories inspired me to visit.  She also brought back a didgeridoo, and I found it to be such a magnificent representation of the experience and the beauty of the country.  That is the only souvenir I really wanted to take home, and my pictures of course.  I bought the didgeridoo and had it shipped to my home.  My purchase included details on the artist and the design, as well as an instructional DVD.  Upon completion of my purchase, I raced back down the the hill to the train station with only a couple of minutes to spare.

The Kuranda Scenic Rail curved through the wilderness over riverbeds, rocks, and hills.  There were 8 tunnels too.  The railroad was built nearly a century ago to connect the small towns and villages in the area to Cairns.  It was also used during WWII to transport troops and cargo, and it was used as a staging ground for the military.  The journey on the train was a great  complement to the skyrail, because you see some things up close and personal from the train that you couldn't see from the sky.  Plus, it seemed to follow a similar route, but on the opposite side of the falls.

I was so tired after the bus took me back to my hotel.  I dropped off some things in my room, and then I headed back out.  My first stop was at Peter Pan to check my email.  Next, I tried to figure out what I would eat for my last night in Cairns.  I decided on a restaurant called the Wool Shed, because they had an outdoor patio and the restaurant didn't have doors.  Plus, the menu seemed interesting and different at a reasonable price compared to the other restaurants in the area.  I ordered the pumpkin, nut, and chickpea burger with avocado because it was something unique and it sounded like it would be a good option.  There were no open tables outside, I found a table inside that was close to the entrance.  My burger was delicious.  I added a little barbecue sauce for an extra zip and my tastebuds were ecstatic.  A couple of kids sat at the table next to me and asked if they could push the tables together because there would be 8 of them total.  They had ordered for everyone and the food was ready before all of their friends arrived.  They sat the meals on the table in front of each seat, and it looked like it could have been a brochure for the restaurant, because it all looked so well-plated.  The portions were good from the salads to the ribs to the steaks, to the chicken, to the burgers, and more.  When the rest of the crew walked in a couple of minutes later, I realized that I had just seen them minutes before.  It turns out that they were the employees form Peter Pan.  I finished my dinner, said goodnight to them, and headed back to my hotel to pack my bags for my early morning flight to Ayers Rock (Uluru).

I always knew that my trip to Australia would include Sydney, and I added Uluru as a must-see a few years ago.  However, when I started planning this trip earlier this year, I learned that I could add Cairns to my list of destinations without breaking the bank.  In fact, I would still be under my budget.  It really was an afterthought in the grand scheme of things, but I'm so glad that I added Cairns to my journey.  It was a great introduction to Australia for me.  It is the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef, which was a bonus.  Too bad I didn't find Nemo while I was there.

Now, my plane is descending into Ayers Rock.  I can't wait to experience the magnificence of Uluru at sunrise and sunset.

Uluru from the airplane

Just Keep Swimming

8-25-14
In the words of Ice Cube, "Today was a good day."  Last night, I fell asleep shortly after getting in bed.  I set my alarm and also asked for a wake-up call so I would have enough time to dress and eat prior to heading out for the day.  I woke up and saw light coming through the window.  I laid in bed for about 30 minutes waiting on the alarm to go off so I could start my day.  After no alarm or call, I got out of bed to look at the time on my phone, which was on the desk across from me.  It turns out that it was only 1:15am.  I thought I'd slept all night.This same scenario happened a couple of times during the night until I finally just got out of bed.  During those restless periods, I watched part of Happy Days, a couple of episodes of Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, and several infomercials.

My day started with continental breakfast at the hotel.  I tried Vegemite on my toast, which is a popular Australian/British spread, and I hated it.  At least I gave it a try.  I went downstairs to wait on the tour bus that would take me to Port Douglas for my tour of the Low Isles on the Great Barrier Reef.  The bus ride was approximately and hour, and I enjoyed riding through the countryside.  We passed a couple of fields of wallabies as well as breathtaking views along the sometimes steep rocky coast.  When we finally arrived at the Port Douglas Marina, I saw many shops and restaurants catering to the many tourists who were arriving for their various excursions.  I quickly picked up my ticket and walked over to the Quicksilver Low Isles boat.  We were welcomed on the boat by the crew and invited to the main cabin for tea/coffee and biscuits (cookies), as well as ginger tablets for sea sickness.  They also sold other snacks and drinks and souvenirs.  There was an overview of the day's schedule and a safety talk prior to us leaving the dock.  There was great emphasis on how to handle and prevent sea sickness.      It was very windy and the water was the roughest I had ever experienced on a boat.  I sat on the main deck looking ahead at all of the magnificent blue water and smiling in amazement that I was in the Pacific Ocean off the coast of Australia.  My wonderment was quickly tamed when I was splashed by the water crashing against the boat.  It was sunny, and only my feet got wet, so I didn't mind so much.  However, after being splashed several more times, almost completely soaked in the high wind, I decided to move to higher (drier) ground before I froze.  I wore my swimsuit underneath my shorts and t-shirt, and I also brought a sarong for the beach that I used to cover my shoulders on the boat.  Next time, I'll wear pants and a jacket, because I was chilly most of the day due to the wind.

We finally arrived and anchored near the islands. Two small boats shuttled passengers over to the beach.  I decided to wait before going to the island, so I took the glass bottom boat tour.  This trip has left me amazed at so many natural wonders.  We saw different types of coral just underneath us at various depths.  Some just inches under our feet.  Coral is a living organism that is similar to jellyfish, but in reverse and stationary.  Most of the coral was yellow or brown due to photosynthesis in the water, and it came in various shapes, like mushroom, spaghetti, brain, spiral, and more.  There are about 400 different types of coral.  Some parts of the coral reef are dying due to global warming and pollution.  We were instructed not to touch it while in the water so as not to disturb the growth.  After the glass-bottom boat tour, we returned to the pontoon boat and our small group was the first to partake in the buffet lunch.  The food was delicious.  They served salads and seafood as well as chicken and beef.  There was also fruit and  warm creamy pumpkin soup to help knock off the chill.

After lunch, I took the shuttle boat to the island with my snorkelling gear and life jacket.  I missed the guided snorkel tour of the coral that was done at the same time as the glass-bottom boat tour.  I told the lifeguard I wasn't very comfortable swimming, so he gave me a few pointers to help me ease into the water.  He also gave me a refresher on how to use the gear.  At first, I floated on my belly in a foot of water too scared to venture out, but he encouraged me to keep moving.  I'm not a bad swimmer, but my fear of being overpowered by the water drowns out my confidence.  When I saw other people walking out into the water and it was only waist deep, I decided it was okay for me to move away from the shore.  The lifeguard pointed out the areas with coral, which were darker than the rest of the water, and I swam in that direction.  There was an older couple from New Zealand who encouraged me to swim over to them to see the coral, and I did.  The man used to be a scuba diver.  They were quite interesting and fun to talk to.  Seeing the coral right next to me was beyond what I ever imagined.  I also saw fish swimming underneath me, including a clear fish.  I saw something stick out of the sand that looked like a snake head.  I panicked and raced back near the lifeguard to tell him what I saw.  He said it might have been an eel, but it definitely wasn't a snake.  (Sidenote: If you're looking for the world's deadliest snakes, crocodiles, spiders, whatever, you will find them in Australia.) I swam for a little while longer and then got out of the water as the beach walk was about to start.  I along with the NZ couple and a few others walked around the island with the marine biologist as our tour guide.  The island was home to a lighthouse that had been there for more than 130 years.  Families used to live on the island as caretakers of the lighthouse.  Now, its solar powered and no longer requires caretakers.  There are 2 rotating island caretakers though.  They are native men who are in charge of keeping the island in good condition and making sure that tourists don't ruin the habitat.  The local guardians also perform traditional ceremonies sometimes as part of their care.  This is a partnership with the government and the preservation society to maintain the natural beauty of the island that seems to be working well based on what I saw.  We were constantly reminded to "Take nothing but photos, and leave nothing but footprints."  The marine biologist did say that I could take a couple of pumice stones that had washed ashore from New Zealand's latest volcanic eruptions.

Every little thing is gonna be alright...

8-24-14
After dreaming about it for over a decade, I finally arrived in Australia.  I landed in Brisbane on the east coast.  As I walked off the plane at 5:20am, the chill hit me like autumn in NY.  It was still dark outside, but I could see the airport was coming to life with people heading off to their various destinations.  After going through customs, I had to check-in for my domestic flight to Cairns.  It turned out that my carry-on suitcase was too heavy at 13kg to be considered a carry-on for domestic flights, so I had to check it.  The max allowed was 9kg.  Note to self: brush up on conversion formulas for weight and distance.

There was a shuttle bus from the international terminal to domestic.  I stood outside with what seemed like everyone from my previous flight.  The sun was slowly starting to rise.  It was dark and chilly with a light rain falling.  After arriving at the domestic terminal, which seemed to be in another city it was so far, I experienced something that hasn't happened in a very long time.  I went through security without taking off my shoes or putting all of my toiletries on display.  I wasn't subjected to a full body x-ray scan either.  It reminded me of flying in America pre-911.  No one even asked for my ID or ticket when I walked through the security checkpoint.  If I had loved ones who wanted to see me off, they could have walked to the gate with me.  I was a little confused at first, so I asked the guy next to me if I needed to remove my shoes.  Apparently, I wasn't the only shocked American, because I saw a couple of pairs of shoes on the conveyor belt in front of me.  I walked through the metal detector, collected my things, and I walked to my gate. The flight from Brisbane to Cairns was pretty uneventful.  I sat next to the window for that flight after being crammed in the middle of a 4-person row from Dallas to Brisbane.  I arrived in Cairns a couple of hours later to the bright sunshine and warm breezy weather.  It reminded me of California or Hawaii.  A shuttle driver picked me up and delivered me to my hotel.  I arrived a couple of hours prior to the normal check-in time, and my room wasn't ready.  I was allowed to secure my bags at the hotel, and then I explored my surroundings.

It seemed like every other business purported to be a coffee shop.  They were everywhere.  There were also lots of Asian restaurants, including Chinese, Japanese, Indian, Thai, Vietnamese, and fusions of them all.  Even though Australia closely aligns with Europe culturally due to colonization, it is still geographically akin to Asia Pacific, and is a reflection of that influence too.  I stopped and ordered a seafood basket at a restaurant, and my body told me later that it was not a good decision.  The whole meal was fried - fish, shrimp, crab, scallops, and chips (fries).  I rarely ever eat fried food.  It tasted good, but I felt a little queasy later.  There were lots of shops around the hotel too,  I went to Woolworths (grocery) across the street, and bought  a large bottle of water for $.80.  I also saw an interesting sign for "Peter Pan Internet".  My phone doesn't work here, and I wanted to check in with my family.  My hotel and other little shops offer internet at a cost, and I wanted to compare them before making a final decision.  I walked up the stairs to Peter Pan & found a large bright room with young people (like fresh out of high school) on computers, some playing video games on flat screen in the middle of the room, and a small group playing Jenga.  There was also loud music playing to attract the kids too.  I asked about the internet, and I was told that it cost $2.  "Per hour?"  No.  If I bought a $2 membership card, I would have unlimited internet access at any of the 22 locations around Australia.  JACKPOT!  The lady handed me a card, and all I had to do was write my name on it and give her $2.  After sending a few emails, I went back to the hotel to finally check in.  The desk clerk told me that I received an upgrade.  My room was clean and bright and near the stairs, just as I like it.  I also explored the restaurant area where they serve continental breakfast.  I found a huge veranda just outside the dining room, which made me smile inside.  The weather is perfect for outdoor dining and lounging.  In fact, I'm sitting on the veranda now writing these words.

During my exploration prior to turning in for the night, I walked over to the esplanade and lagoon where it seemed like locals and tourists alike could find enjoyment.  There was a concert in the park that seemed to have lots of patrons too.  As I walked back from the water, I heard a 1-man band playing 3 Little Birds, and I couldn't help but sing and smile as I walked by.  I picked up dinner and purchased a bottle of wine from the store next to Woolworths and had my first dinner in Australia in the cool night air with voices wafting up to the porch from the sidewalks below and the breeze blowing in off the water.  There are no worries tonight.

Ease on down, ease on down the road...

"When did you fall in love with Hip Hop?"  That was the tag line over a decade ago from the movie, Brown Sugar.  A couple years before that movie came out, I fell in love, but it wasn't with Hip Hop.  It was like a blind date.  A few people told me we would be good together, but I was skeptical.  Then, I saw some pictures, and I was hooked.  It all began in "the year 2000", back when people said "the year 2000" in common conversation because we were astonished by the futuristic sounding 2000s.  I was a college student who was excited about the new semester and the many amazing things to come.  I remember sitting with my eyes glued to the TV one night watching the opening ceremony of the Games of the Olympiad, or the Summer Olympic Games.  That was the night I fell in love... with Sydney.  I knew from that moment that one day we would be together.  Fourteen years later, we will finally meet in person.

I am off to the land of Oz better known as Australia.  I'm so excited about finally realizing my dream.  While I'm in Australia, I will visit Cairns and Uluru (Ayers Rock), in addition to Sydney.  I packed my luggage (no checked bags), and I'm ready to go.  How did I fit 10 days worth of clothing and toiletries into a carry-on bag?  I used a packing list and tips that I found at  http://herpackinglist.com/ to customize my list of necessities for the trip.  I rolled my clothes into a compression bag, and I am also taking an extra bag that I can fill with my travel finds.  The biggest challenge for me so far has been packing for different areas of the country with a variety of climates.  This is the end of winter for the southern hemisphere, so the temperatures are chilly compared to the 90 degrees plus that I'm accustomed to this Houston summer.  I am preparing for temperatures ranging from 50 degrees to the mid 80s, so I have long-sleeved shirts, tank tops, shorts and pants that I can layer depending on the climate.  See my packing list below.

My trip will include stops at the Great Barrier Reef and Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park, as well as a tour of the Sydney Harbor, and a view of the sunrise and sunset at Uluru.  I plan to take lots of pictures without losing my camera this time around.  I can't wait to experience the land down under and share my perspective with my friends and family.

Packing List

o   3 Basic Tank Tops

o   3 Basic T-Shirts

o   2 Nice Shirts/blouses

o   3 Dresses - 1 black

o   2 Pairs of jeans

o   1 Shorts

o   1 water proof jacket/poncho

o   1 Medium/lightweight jacket/cardi – autumn, spring & summer

o   2 Sweaters/jumpers – winter, autumn & spring

o   5 Socks – for winter, autumn & spring

o   10 Pairs of underwear

o   2 Yoga/sweat pants – sleeping & sports

o   2 Swimsuits -summer, spring, autumn

o   1 Scarf

o   1 Sarong

o   1 Flip flops

o   1 Walking shoes/sneakers

o   1 Nice/going out sandals/heels/flats

o   Sunglasses

o   sunscreen

o   Sun protection hat

o   Mosquito repellent

o   toothpaste

o   peppermint soap

o   body oil

o   Smooth Move

o   First Aid kit

o   back cream

o   camera & flash drive

o   travel pillow

o   power adaptor

o   body wipes

o   cleaning wipes

o   snacks

o   collapsible water bottle

o   reusable bags

o   toiletry bag

o   phone charger

o   rolling duffel bag

o   watch

o   goggles

Time has come today...

I traveled to O'ahu as part of the James Madison High School Class of 1960 tour group.  As soon as I stepped foot on the bus shuttling us to the airport, one of the organizers told me and another passenger around my age that we needed to be at work paying for their Social Security.  They cracked jokes about us "youngsters" practically the whole trip.  They were most definitely a lively bunch of seniors.  Some of them drank like they were reliving their college days.  There were several nights when I went up to my room before 9pm, while they stayed up late socializing in the lobby.  Many of us seemed to have trouble sleeping & trying to adjust to the 5-hour time difference.  I was in bed by 9:30 some nights & and woke up between 4 & 5 am most days, except for one day when I slept until 6:30am.

I explored the area around our hotel in those early morning hours when the streets were dark, but filled with many other pedestrians who must have also had trouble sleeping.  During my first morning walk, I met 2 surfers waiting on the sun to come up to begin their day at the beach.  They reminded me of "Jay and Silent Bob".  "Jay" was very friendly and greeted everyone who walked along the sidewalk.  He said his goal was to boost the positive energy around him by being positive himself.  His goal that morning was to get "Silent Bob" on his bus.  That sounded familiar, so I asked him if he had read, "The Energy Bus".  He said he had read the book and felt it was important to raise the energy of those around him even though the passersby generally ignored his enthusiastic greetings.

On another sleepless morning, I strapped on my running shoes and jogged around a well-lit military park followed by a dip in the hotel pool.  I was the only person in the pool at 5 o'clock in the morning.  I floated on an intertube and marvelled at the bright stars above.  The stars were bigger and brighter in Hawaii than I've ever seen in Texas.

One thing that I know for sure is that the tourism industry thrives on suckers who pay high prices for hotels, flights, excursions, etc.  If you're willing to pay $100 for dinner, then they are not going to tell you it only costs $10.  Our hotel and many others had agents inside selling different tourist packages like snorkeling, bus tours, dinner cruises, luaus, etc.  During our exploration of the area, we saw a small window offering the same packages that were being sold at the hotel for less than half the cost.  The shop sold snacks and computer usage, as well as the tourist packages advertised in the window, but the primary commodity of that shop seemed to be tar & nicotene in the form of cigarettes.  I stepped into the small shop that was no bigger than my Honda Civic to inquire about a tour of the island, also called the "circle island tour".  Our small group of 7 paid $38 each for the day long bus tour of the island of O'ahu versus $84 that was being charged elsewhere.  That tour encompassed many sites where the bulk of my pictures were taken. :-(

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CsBwBct0_5U

Eastern Star

Prior to arriving in Hawaii, I searched Groupon & Living Social for deals near Waikiki Beach.  I saw many interesting offers on restaurants and activities, including watersports and tours.  I ended up purchasing 2 Groupons (2 admissions for $35) for Herbal Spa & Sauna.  Once I arrived on the island, I called to make an appointment for the spa visit, which included a jacuzzi, steam room, & sauna.  The proprietor informed me of a discounted price of $80 (regularly $120) on the full spa services for Groupon customers.  The enhanced package included a body scrub, shiatsu massage, cucumber facial, coconut and banana body mask, scalp massage and hair wash.  It was absolutely fabulous.  I had a little trepidation when I first walked into the small building that also housed a Vietnamese restaurant at the front.  The spa visit started with a tour of the facility along with a view of the mineral salt tank that was used to pump in the steam.  The components reminded me of my water softener tank at home.  My 3 companions and I started in the mineral salt steam room followed by the dry sauna, hot tub, cold water pool, the Himilayan mineral salt sauna and the clay sauna.  During our round of the spa, we were called individually to the table for bodywork starting with the salt scrub.  Every inch of my body was scrubbed until I felt like a newborn baby with no toxins left in me whatsoever.  After the scrub, I was slightly embarassed by the dirt specks remaining on the table, until I heard everyone else say the same thing.  We left there after about 3 hours feeling refreshed and ready to bask in our newly cleansed selves.  If only I could do that on a more regular basis.  Plus, we met two very friendly military wives who graciously offered to drive us to our hotel so we didn't have to take the bus back.  The visit to Herbal Spa exceeded all of our expectations.  I imagined that must have been similar to the process Esther underwent in preparation for the king.  I definitely could have put up with that treatment for a year.

Aloha

I am currently sitting on a Boeing 767 that just took off over the hilly craters of O'ahu.  According to the screen above my head, I have 6218 km to my destination.  This is usually a very calming time for me as I look out the window at the awesomely majestic scenery below.  Even now, I can't help but feel more relaxed flying over the vast wonder we call the Pacific Ocean.  Minutes before boarding this flight, I realized that I no longer had my trusty, ever present friend, Canon.  I somehow lost my camera in the airport.  I went through the security checkpoints, walked to the restroom, and then proceeded to my gate with my camera & all my other belongings in tow.  I stopped to take a few pictures of the Hawaiian and Japanese planes sitting at the gates ready to be loaded for their next destination.  I walked to my gate, and sat for a few minutes before getting up to walk around the area to find food.  Finding food before the flight was important because no food or snacks would be served on the almost 8-hour trip.  I sat down & ate a few bites, saving most of the food for the plane.  I first noticed that my camera was missing when I got up to walk back to the gate for boarding.  I frantically searched the restaurant and asked the workers if they had seen my missing camera. It felt more like an extension of myself because it held so many precious moments of my life that I could revisit from time to time.  Not only did it store my pictures of Hawaii, but also my wedding anniversary in New Orleans, and other special events.  I retraced my steps & asked the gate agent if anyone had turned in a camera, and I checked the seating area around the gate.  I called the airport helpline and they gave me the number for Lost & Found, which I called several times to no avail.  I was very disappointed when the line rang a few times before hanging up on me.  I walked back to the gate agent and the ticket agent once more before boarding, and I left my contact info. just in case they found anything.  Without pictures, the images that I saw will live only in my mind's eye.  It was like a nearsighted person losing their glasses.  It was such an awful way to end an otherwise fabulous vacation.  C'est la vie.

The Island of Enchantment

I believe that birthdays are special.  Period.

Whether you decide to sit at home watching TV all day or partying with family and friends, that day should be celebrated because it means you're still living.  I decided to spend my special day in San Juan Puerto Rico this year. I selected PR because I wanted to be somewhere warm and near the water.  Plus, there are no travel restrictions for US citizens.  My husband and I boarded the flight from Houston with no drama.  We sat in our seats and heard the babbling of a baby behind us.  Will peeked through the crack in the seats to see a beautiful little copper-skinned girl with curly hair that could not be quieted.  We hoped that "Dora" wouldn't talk the whole 4 hours.  Two-year old "Dora" was fascinated by everything she saw, and she did talk practically the whole flight.  My limited Spanish proficiency allowed me to understand all of her loquacious babbling.  I slept as much as I could being sandwiched between my husband and our neighbor.  The landing was one of the worst I've ever experienced.  It felt like God was playing dodgeball, and we were the ball bouncing along the runway.  Thankfully, we were able to walk away alive and board a taxi to our hotel, Conrad San Juan, Condado Plaza.  More about the hotel later...

After settling into our room and checking out the hotel amenities, we decided to take to the streets of Condado in search of dinner.  We walked along the busy street with cracked sidewalks and a few dilapidated buildings.  I marveled at the way they camouflaged those buildings by draping the facade with full-length tourism banners.  From a distance, you wouldn't know that the building showing the beautiful El Yunque was actually abandoned with half of the backside missing.  We continued our walk scoping out the various shops and restaurants along the way.  We finally stopped at Latin Star, a 24 hour restaurant known for its Puertorican cuisine.  It has a patio on the street with about 20 tables tightly packed together, and when  I went inside for the restroom, I saw that there were probably 6 or 7 more tables plus a bar.  We only saw 2 people serving the patrons when we first sat down.  All along the wall were pictures of Kobe Bryant, Macho Kamacho (Will had to tell me who he was), a bunch of baseball stars, etc. along with a middle aged man in each of the pics.  I looked at our waiter again and noticed that he was the man in all the pictures with the athletes, so we assumed he was the owner of the restaurant.  I ordered mofongo with crab, and my husband ordered the fried pork chop with plantains.  Mofongo is a traditional dish of mashed green plantains that are stuffed with meat and a spicy sauce.  The food was muy delicioso.  My husband said it was the best pork chop he'd ever tasted.  They cooked it with the skin on so it had a crispy texture, which was another island specialty.  He couldn't tempt me to eat that pork though.  The service was great and the place started to fill up as we finished our dinner.  Two other servers walked in as we started to leave.  I think it was a family restaurant.  I would definitely go there again.

Prior to arriving in PR, I had 3 things on my agenda that were must sees for me: 1) Bio Bay 2) Loiza and 3) Old San Juan.  PR is the home of 1 of the 3 bio-luminescent bays in the world.  The other 2 are in Jamaica and Bahamas.  We went to Fujardo, which was the closest bio bay to San Juan.  I chose Pure Adventure out of the many companies offering tours because it was founded by marine biologists, and I knew it would be fun and educational.

Epilogue

Flying above the green, brown, blue terrain and white marshmallow clouds inspires me to write. I find it to be one of the most serene settings – no talking, no music, and no noise, except for the air rushing by outside and the occasional incoherent murmurings from the cockpit. I am on another plane, within the US this time, and I’m finally writing the conclusion to my India 2011 trip. I’ve been home for about a month now and have had some time to reflect on my time in Mumbai.

I didn’t get a picture of Chevy Rickshaw. We saw it practically every day for the first 2 weeks, but it eluded us the final 2 weeks. I had my camera ready just in case one of us – Lisa, Hussain (our driver), or I – caught a glimpse of it as we passed the energetic street. That street contained Lisa’s cows on the corner, “bath time” where we usually saw men showering near a water pipe, “water time” with young women carrying water pots and bowls precariously atop their heads while crossing the busy street, and “Chevy Rickshaw” - the rickshaw with the bright red top and Chevrolet symbol in the back window. We left India a week before 2 of our co-workers who had to stay behind at the last minute. I gave them a detailed overview of Chevy Rickshaw and even instructed them to take a picture if they saw it. It feels like it was just a legend now that I will tell my children. Maybe they will travel to India one day in search of Chevy Rickshaw like the Spaniards looking for the Fountain of Youth.

Besides looking for Chevy Rickshaw, we spent our last day in Mumbai looking for as many OMs as possible, as well as “Elizabeth” and Lisa’s last name. I knew finding my name would be highly unlikely, but my eyes perked up whenever we passed a church or other Christian area. In India, as in many other countries, names have meaning and tell you a lot about the person before even meeting them. For example, if you see the name Shiva or Ganesh, then you can assume that the bearer is Hindu. If you see the name Akil, Hussain, Ahmed, then you can assume that they are Muslim. If the name is Mary, Xavier, or Elizabeth, then they are likely to be Christian. These are all assumptions because families can choose whatever they’d like to name their children. However, most stick with tradition. A Hindu friend told me he would like to name his daughter Elizabeth, but his family would be very upset if he chose a Christian name for his child. The names, especially last names, can also tell you where the family is from. For example, Shah and Patel are popular names in Gujarat. Singh, as in Prime Minister Manmohan Singh, is a common last names for Sikhs. Khan is a common Muslim last name, and is the moniker for a couple of Bollywood’s biggest stars. I like the fact that everyone recognizes that names are important in India and that your name tells your story. It is a truth that many Americans tend to ignore.

Many things changed since my last trip to Mumbai in 2008. I attended Sushama’s baby shower, and now her “baby” is a 3-year old girl. My friends, Anita and Yagnesh, now have a toddler son too. I wasn’t able to see either of the children due to the limited amount of free time outside of work, but I heard a lot about them. Other people that I met before have moved on to do other things, but we’ve been able to keep in touch via social networking. Once again, my Indian friends and co-workers were gracious hosts and made my time in India easier and more fulfilling. From zipping across Vashi to the tailor on the back of Sarika’s motorcycle to the meals ordered from Sunny’s just before the 1am delivery cutoff by Wilfred, from Rupali wrapping my sari around my jeans and t-shirt to Chinmayee adorning my hand with mehinde, I was blessed to be surrounded by many people who were always willing to make my time in Mumbai the best possible under sometimes difficult circumstances.


Mehinde (henna) - I chose a more Arabian looking design this time.




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